If you are planning a trip to Seoul, you have probably heard the name “Dongdaemun” at least once. Most people know the area because of Dongdaemun Design Plaza, often called DDP. One of the famous events held there is Seoul Fashion Week, and the building itself attracts many visitors because of its unique architecture.
Dongdaemun is also well known as a shopping district, with countless shopping malls and markets. In the past, I even wrote a blog post introducing the accessory market in this area. However, when I think of Dongdaemun, there is another place I personally find even more charming and attractive. It’s a wonderful place for a walk, and the further you go, the more beautiful it becomes.
Can you guess where it is?
It is the Dongdaemun Fortress Wall Trail.
Dongdaemun was originally built during the Joseon Dynasty as one of the four main gates of Seoul, located on the eastern side of the city. The gate has preserved much of its original form and is designated as Korean National Treasure No. 1. Today it stands proudly in the middle of a busy road, but in the past it was an essential gateway for anyone entering the capital of Joseon.
If you get off at Dongdaemun Station and step outside, the massive gate standing in the middle of the road is impossible to miss. Since it is one of Korea’s designated national treasures, it’s worth taking a moment to admire it up close. The gate is officially known as Heunginjimun.
Next to Dongdaemun, you will see a long stone wall stretching along the hillside. This wall is part of the old city wall that once surrounded the capital of Joseon. It was built to protect the city and mark the boundary of the capital. Originally the wall was fully connected to the gate, but today only certain sections remain.
Seoul has several fortress wall walking trails, and the one near Dongdaemun is especially charming. At the beginning of the trail, you will find a small park. As you continue walking along the wall, there comes a moment when the view suddenly opens up and you can see Dongdaemun and the surrounding city stretching into the distance. Even though you are in the middle of a big city, the open view feels refreshing and freeing. From here, you can even spot Dongdaemun Design Plaza far away.
(A summer landscape)
The scenery also changes with the seasons. The view in summer feels vibrant and lively, while autumn creates a completely different atmosphere. In fall, the park becomes filled with tall silver grass, adding a romantic feeling to the landscape.
(An autumn landscape)
As you continue climbing the fortress trail, you will begin to notice old houses appearing along the hillside. Because the fortress wall must be preserved, large-scale development has been limited in this neighborhood. As a result, many older homes still remain. You may see traditional Korean houses, stylish renovated buildings, and even fragile-looking old homes standing side by side.
The variety of houses makes the walk interesting. When you turn around and look back, you can see rows of homes built along the hillside. Even as a Korean, I still find this view fascinating. Sometimes the houses look so old that I worry about them, but at the same time I feel a little sad thinking that redevelopment might make these scenes disappear.
After the Korean War, Korea was extremely poor. Many people did not have proper homes, so they built small houses on mountainsides and hills to form communities. Even today, many homes remain clustered along these hills. Although the exteriors may look old, many interiors have been beautifully renovated. Because these homes offer amazing views of Seoul, many young people now dream of living in neighborhoods like this. That is why these areas have become quite popular today.
(An autumn landscape)
As you keep walking, you will begin to notice more cafés appearing along the hillside. It feels surprising to find cafés perched so high on the slope. But once you step inside, you can enjoy coffee while looking out over an incredible view of Seoul.
Sitting in a café and looking down at the city where countless lives are packed closely together is one of the unique pleasures you can experience in this neighborhood.
The fortress trail continues even further. If you keep walking, you will eventually reach Naksan Park. Although I won’t introduce the park in detail today, if you have time it’s definitely worth continuing your walk. Interestingly, one of the scenes in the animated film K‑Pop Demon Hunters is said to be inspired by the fortress wall path around Naksan Park.
(A scene from K-Pop Demon Hunters)
So if you visit Dongdaemun, don’t just focus on shopping. Take some time to walk along this peaceful trail where you can enjoy beautiful views of eastern Seoul. As you stroll slowly along the old fortress wall, you will experience both the history of the Joseon era and the modern energy of the city and perhaps fall a little more in love with Seoul.
(A dog that joined me for a walk around Dongdaemun ^^)
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